Refi

Refinance Calculator

Details

How to use Refinance Calculator

What the tool does, how to run it, and what to expect from the result.

How to compare a refinance rate against your current one

Enter your outstanding balance, the rate you pay now, the rate you have been offered, and how many years remain. The tool amortizes the same balance over the same term at both rates and subtracts the payments.

Holding the term fixed is what makes the comparison meaningful. It shows you what the rate alone is worth, without the payment reduction that comes from stretching the loan back out.

  • Enter what you still owe in the Loan balance field. It starts at 250000.
  • Enter the rate you pay today in the Current rate (%) field. It starts at 7.
  • Enter the offered rate in the New rate (%) field. It starts at 5.5.
  • Enter the years left on the loan in the Remaining term (years) field. It starts at 25.
  • Take the Monthly savings figure and divide your closing costs by it. That number of months is your break-even, and it is the number that decides whether to refinance.
Tips

Getting a better result out of Refinance Calculator

Specific settings and thresholds, not general advice.

  • Both payments are computed on the same balance over the same remaining term, so the comparison isolates the rate and nothing else. The defaults, 250000 over 25 years, give 1766.99 at 7% against 1535.29 at 5.5%, a saving of 231.70 a month.
  • That is the honest way to compare rates and it is not what most refinances do. A real refi usually resets the clock to a fresh 30 years, which lowers the payment further and can raise lifetime interest even at the lower rate.
  • Closing costs are not in the model. At 2 to 5 percent of the balance, a refi on 250000 costs roughly 5000 to 12500, so break-even is that cost divided by the monthly saving: 7500 / 231.70 is about 32 months. Moving before then means the refinance lost money.
  • Rolling closing costs into the loan is not free. It raises the balance being financed, so rerun the new-rate side with the higher balance if that is the plan.
  • The rule that you need a full 1% rate drop to refinance is folklore. The real test is break-even months against how long you will stay, and on a large balance even a 0.5% drop can clear that bar.
Limits

What Refinance Calculator does not do

The honest boundary, so you do not lose time finding it yourself.

  • No closing costs, points, or lender fees, and therefore no break-even month.
  • The same term is used for both loans. It cannot model resetting to a fresh 30-year clock.
  • No cash-out refinance, no PMI removal, no ARM-to-fixed conversion.
  • Monthly payment comparison only. No lifetime-interest comparison between the two loans.
At a glance

Who Refinance Calculator is for

A quick way to understand who this helps, what it solves, and where it connects next.

Best fit

Shoppers, students, freelancers, and anyone who needs a quick, private calculation.

Ideal for

Fast everyday math without a spreadsheet, app install, or sign-up.

FAQ

Common questions

Short answers for the questions people usually have before trying a utility like this.

Is the refinance calculator free?

Yes. It is completely free to use, with no signup, no account, and no paywall.

How accurate are the results?

The calculator uses the standard formulas for this kind of math, but real-world results can differ once fees, rounding, rate changes, and provider-specific rules come into play. Treat the output as a planning estimate, not a quote.

Does it stay local?

Yes. The numbers you enter are processed entirely in your browser and never leave your device.

How do I work out my break-even point?

Divide your total closing costs by the monthly saving the tool reports. On the defaults, saving 231.70 a month against 7500 of costs breaks even at about 32 months. If there is any chance you sell or refinance again before then, the deal does not pay.

Does it model resetting to a new 30-year term?

No, and that is deliberate. It runs both rates over the same remaining term, which isolates the rate change. Resetting to 30 years on a loan you have already paid down for five years lowers the payment further but stretches the interest back out, and the tool cannot show you that trade.

Is a 1% rate drop really the threshold to refinance?

It is a rule of thumb, not a rule. What matters is closing costs divided by monthly saving, measured against how long you will hold the loan. On a large balance a 0.5% drop can save enough per month to clear a 5000 cost in under two years, and on a small balance even a 1.5% drop might not.

Can it handle a cash-out refinance?

Not directly. Enter the new, larger balance in the balance field to see what the cash-out payment would be, but the comparison against your current payment will then be misleading, because the two lines would be sized on different principals.

Should I compare the note rate or the APR?

Compare note rates to get the payments right, since that is what the servicer bills. Compare APRs if you want a fee-inclusive view of which offer is cheaper. Do not mix them, because a note rate on one side and an APR on the other produces a saving figure that means nothing.

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